Vestervig church, Thisted Kommune, Thy, North Jutland

   

2003/gb

                                                             

Vestervig church lies desolate and stately with a magnificent view to the Limfjorden and the North Sea. It is a a church in Vestervig parish in Thisted Kommune (municipality) in Thy. The church is unusually large and is said to be the largest village church in the North (see note later). Its size is due to its history as a church of the lost Vestervig kloster. (Augustinian abbey). Besides existed a royal manor while it was built,  and the opinion is that Knud den Store gathered his fleet at Vestervig for a Viking expedition to England.

History:

The church in 1897/wikipedia

Thøger, a missionary who originally came from Thüringia, built aleady in the 1000s a church at this  place. Before this he had studied theology in England and was a missionary in Norway, where king Olav II Haraldson attached him to his court. After the king's death Thøger worked as a missionary in Jutland and settled about 1030 in Thy in the northwestern part of Jutland. He built his church made of "ris og kviste" (spruce and twigs) and he soon succeeded in christening the heathen  Thy-inhabitants  He died on June 24 in or around 1065 and was buried in his church. Soon was seen a heavenly light on his grave and his bones were taken from the grave and shrined at the altar.

A cathedral and a kloster.  

2003/gb

Svend Estridsen was Danish king at that time and in the 1060s the Danish church was being organized into eight bishoprics. The effort to create a legend around Sct Thøger's grave must have been important for assigning the bishopric of North Jutland in the desolate Vestervig - and in ab. 1070 the building of a stone-cathedral began, a magnificent church upon a hill about 100 meter east of Sct Thøger's old church. Sct Thøger's remains were translated on 30 October 1117 to the church of the Augustinian Vestervig Abbey which was built beside the cathedral


The building masters masters came from England from where also the Augustinian monks arrived for the kloster. The basic church plan was a traditional three-naved cross church, built as a basilica in heavy granite ashlars  and with a choir and apse to the east. In the cross sections were chapels to the east with apse-finish. The church was almost 60 meter long and worthy of the new bishopric, but the building had not yet finished completely when a complicated feud about the power began about the bishopric. The result was that the bishopric between 1134 and 1139 was moved to Børglum in Vendsyssel. The church and the kloster buildings remained however and Vestervig developed into a place of pilgrimage around Sct Thøger's church.

Rebuild and Reformation

2003/gb

The church in Vestervig was rebuilt in the 1400s -  a fresco inscription in the northern sidenave dates the rebuild till 1444. The building was shortened to the west by almost 6 meter and a mighty tower in monk bricks was built at the western gable. The cross arms were demolished and the choir built into a longhouse choir at the expense of the apse. Under the mighty roof, which covered the whole church, were built Gothic vaults. The kloster complex at the southside of the church building was also rebuilt with access to the church by the southern walls of the tower and by the choir.

The rebuild was finished, but the kloster was shortly after abandoned at the reformation. The kloster church did not disappear though,  but Sct Thøger's old church was demolished in 1547. The kloster buildings remained and was used by the Danish Crown for various purpose. One of king Frederik 3.'s  officials was in 1661 given Vestervig kloster which during the following years was rebuilt into a manor. In 1839-1840 the manor was demolished because of bad economy and with it the choir of the church.

Rebuild in the 1900s
A new rebuild started in 1917-21, which was  a complete rebuild of choir and apse. The Romanesque kloster church was recreated on the outside, but the architect respected the 1400s rebuild of the cross arms and the late Gothic west tower. Note: The cathedral and kloster church in  Vestervig is mentioned as the largest village church in the North, although it is not situated in a village or has anything to do with a village church as to a historical meaning.

2003/gb

Reliefs and  a Sundial Upon the outer walls are many stone images, but none of the sculptures are placed in their original place.Some of them probably originate from the old Sct. Thøger's church which was demolished in 1547. The reconstructed south door is flanked by two columns with a pretty tympanum. The motif is Christ on the rainbow throne which is held by two angels. At the right side of the church entrance is a very rare Romanesque sundial marking the ecclesiastical times. The letters T, S and N refer to the third, sixth and ninth hour where the monks gathered for their prayers. Above the priest door on the north wall of the choir is a  carved relief stone, which originates from Sct. Thøger's church: a cross lamb for Christ and a dove for the Holy spirit.

2003/gb

The landmark of Vestervig  In the middle of the choir wall is a strange ashlar with a relief called the landmark of Vestervig. The relief has four heads, surrounded by leaf ornaments and to the right two dragons where one bites the other in the tail. The upper heads are two bearded men and below two caricatured animal-like heads, which can be interpreted as the devil with his tongue out of the mouth and a Christ mask with lushly leaf-windings out of his mouth. The devil is the work of the devil, while the Christ mask and the flowers are the makings of God.



Frescoes:

There are several Gothic fresoes inside the church, in one is a pig playing a bagpipe, another fresco shows a dog eating a goose, but there are also some pretty rib-decorations and Gothic leaf windings.

2003/gb

Inventory
The oldest inventory is the baptismal font, which is uniqe in Denmark. It was made in Norway, carved in soapstone.The carved decorations on the font refer to the transition time between the Viking period and the early Romanesque style. The font was not originally a part of the inventory since the kloster did not have any baptismal ceremonies, but it probably came from Sct. Thøger's church, and he himself might have brought the font back with him from Norway.

wikipedia

The pulpit is a Renaissance work from 1610 with a decoration from 1718. Next to the pulpit hangs the oldest chandelier of the church, a fine secular Renaissance work, which according to the coat of arms belonged to Ellen Marsvin and her husband Ludvig Munk. The crown which is from the end of the 1500s was given to the church  in 1679.

wikipedia

The altar piece is voluptous Baroque, originally meant for the cathedral in Viborg but sold to Vestervig church in 1729. The paintings are from 1735.
In the tower room is the large Marcussen organ, a great craftsmanship from 1978. 

Gravestones
A fine collection of gravestones are also from the Romanesque period, several prettily carved with crosses in high relief and long Latin inscriptions, like the priest Tue's stone from 1210 and the canon Atte's stone from 1217. A couple of Gothic gravestones for Niels Strangesen Bild and wife Ingeborg Dusenradedatter from ab. 1424 and for Peder Friis and Christine Nielsdatter from 1483.

2003/gb

The legend about Liden Kirsten and Prince Buris The most famous grave memorial in the large grave yard is "Liden Kirstens Grav." The legend about Liden Kirsten is a story about king Valdemar den Store's sister, who in the king's absence was seduced by prince Buris, a halfbrother of Valdemar's evil queen Sophie, who actually was behind the intrigue. When Valdemar came home and saw the result of the illegal love relation beween the two young people, he grew so furious that he danced and whipped his sister to death, while Buris had his eyes cut out. Kirsten was buried in Vestervig and the mutilated Buris spent his last years behind the walls of the kloster. According to a legend he haunted the church yard in his chains. Another legend says that he was buried by the feet of Liden Kirsten.

A dramatic and grim story about one of our hero kings and his little sister. The persons are real, but the historical facts do not fit well with the legend. Buris Henriksen was not Sophie's brother,but Valdemar's second cousin and a son of Henrik Skadelaar. Buris was born ab. 1130 and belonged like Valdemar to the royal family, they were both great grandsons of Svend Estridsen. Buris was one of few, who in the 1160s would not acknowledge Valdemar as king. But Valdemar was overbearing and endowed Buris with large property in North Jutland, but since Buris conspired with the Norwegian king Erling Skakke against Valdemar things went wrong. Buris was sent to prison at Søborg castle in 1167 and disappears from historical sources..

It was correct that Valdemar had a sister named Kirsten, she was not his little sister, but thirteen years older than Valdemar., born in 1118. In 1133 when Valdemar was 2 years of age, she got married to the Norwegian king Magnus. After his death in 1139 she returned to Denmark and in 1165 when the legend took place Kirsten was a woman of 47 years.

And Valdemar was hardly a guardian of virtue. At nineteen he had a love affair with Tove. which resulted in 1150 in a son Christoffer.

But it might be that the king's sister and  Buris Henriksen were buried in the church yard at Vestervig, where she as a widow and he as a mutiliated prisoner of state had lived their last years.


Excavations of the grave.
In 1890

Romanesque grave/ Nors church, North Jutland/gb.

Two Romanesque graves were found consecutively in excavations in 1890. A gravestone with wornout hexameter inscriptions says that the stone covers a brother and a sister. The graves contained bodies of different sex. The gravestone is decorated with two crosses and ends with a vertical stone in each end. The crosses of the gravestone have the same shape as the crosses of the three gravestones inside the church, which are dated to ab. 1200.

In 1962:
The grave was reopened in 1962. Two Romanesque graves were found. In one was a woman of 30-50 years, in the other grave a male of 50 years, who was heavily weakened. In connection to examinations in 1962 new theories were forwarded  about the two persons. The male person might be Buris Henriksen, son of Henrik Skadelaar. Buris had served king Valdemar den Store, but fell from grace in 1167 and was chained at Søborg castle, whereafter he disappears from the historical sources. The woman might be the Norwegian princess Kristine Sigurdsdatter who was married to Erling Skakke with whom she had the son Magnus. Erling Skakke wanted to secure Magnus against rivals for the Crown and let Kristine's illegal son kill in 1168. Kristine went to Denmark in 1169 and died here in 1178.

Buris Henriksen had stayed at Erling Skakkes' court. Was he the father of Kristines child and did he live his last years in Vestervig together with Kristine as residents at the kloster?

There are more theories and more suggestions of other persons in this story, but this would be a very long description!!

A beautiful tradition. 
It is a tradition that  a newlywed  bride puts her bouquet on Liden Kirsten's Grave because Kirsten never got one herself. The same tradition is used in Landet church at the island Tåsinge where the bride puts a bouquet on Elvira Madigan's grave. 

An ancient Danish folksong about Liden Kirsten and prince Buris is connected to the story.  


Sources:
Danmarks Kirker, Niels Peter Stilling, 2000; Kirkens Hjemmeside og "Knakken" af henrik Bolt Jørgensen 1990 samt wikipedia dansk og engelsk.

Vestervig church seen from the North. (Google Earth)

Iron Age settlement north of Vestervig church  (Google Earth )

An Iron Age settlement north of the church was partly excavated in the 1960s. Visible are  stone pavings, contours of houses, herring bone pattern-pavings at the entrance. 

About 500 meter to the west is another Iron Age settlement at Vestervig Kloster Mølle (Mill).There are several Iron Age settlements in the neighbourhood.





photo: grethe bachmann, wikipedia and google Earth.

Hee church / Hee kirke, Hind herred, Ringkøbing amt.

Hee Church, ab. 9 km north of Ringkøbing
Hee sogn, Hind herred, Ringkøbing amt.

The very impressive church in Hee north of Ringkøbing and not far from Stadil fjord is one of the strangest and most important buildings in Denmark from the Romanesque period. Once it was a herredskirke (district church) and it was probably inaugurated to Vor Frue. It has a Romanesque choir and nave and a little later was added another Romanesque front hall and a tower to the west and two additions at the south side of the nave, the westernest probably from the late Gothic period, the other probably from the middle of the 1500s. Furthermore was at the northside of the choir a probably late Gothic sacristy, which was demolished after 1769. The choir and the nave have only kept few original details, since all windows are replaced with large neo-Romanesque from 1882-84. Only the simple bricked-up north door is traceable.


Inside the church are new beamed ceilings and the choir arch seems extended. In spite of a tough restoration the large interest is the very rich western section, where the details point at Ribe domkirke. The tower section is built in granite ashlars upon a profiled double plinth, from which raises pilastres which divide the facades in fields. The portal in the west gable has free pillars upon attic base and with palmet-decorated cubic capitals under a tympanum with double lions. In the top is a small pillar in every corner of the building and between them are to the north and south small circular windows, everyone carved in one stone, and to the west two similar halfcircular, everyone below a projecting grotesque human head. In the upper section of the tower is a double opening divided with a pillar, opening to each corner of the world, and a smooth gable to the east and west.


pulpit and parish clerk chair

The front hall has a low heavy ellipse arch to the nave and a similar connects on the west wall a stair tower to the south with a free-standing square pillar to the north, while between these are very broad round arches, supporting the upper section of the tower. Between the arches is a rectangular cupola vault. In the middle storey are two small rooms, which get their light from the small round windows. The archive of Hind herred was once kept here, probably in the northern side room ,which is the most isolated and a tradition says that they were a place of refuge for fru Ellen from Voldbjerg (Ellen Krag, married to Peder Skram?). The whole upper section of the tower is re-newed, since it after a break down was rebuilt in 1721 in bricks, and the strange western section was broken down to the ground during the thorough restoration in 1882-84. The two additions at the south side of the nave was on the same occassion normalized into Romanesque style. The western side was original a late Gothic chapel with a pointed arch to the nave and a cross-vault, the eastern probably from the middle of the 1500s, built in granite ashlars from No kirke which was demolished in the reformation -period. The whole building now stands with a blank granite wall and lead roof upon new roof works.

Late Gothic crucifix ab. 1450

Stone mason mark

Two human heads on the tower

The altarpiece is an impressive carved work in late Renaissance from 1635, probably by the same master as the altar piece in Gudum church. The four pillar structure has in the middle field a high relief of the Holy Communion, flanked by evangelists and apostles, in the top field the Crucifixion and Resurrection. The altar chalice has Renaissance-shape but is probably a copy. Very heavy Baroque candelabres upon very large feet. In the choir is a parish clerk stool in late Gothic style from ab. 1550 with the coat of arms of Juel and Munk and a priest chair in very rich high Renaissance, ab. 1600. A Romanesque granite font in West Jutland type. South German baptismal bowl ab. 1575. A font sounding board in Renaissance ab. 1650 with the coat of arms of Otte Krag and Anna Rosenkrantz. The pulpit with corner pillars and portal fields is a Renaissance work from the beginning of the 1600s, similar to the pulpit in Ringkøbing. In the portal fields fine paintings from the late 1700s. A contemporary sounding board. The manor pews have the year 1655 and the paternal and maternal coat of arms of Otte Krag and Anna Rosenkrantz. Other pews with the coat of arms of Fasti and Spend. The rest and more simple pews are from the same period. In the nave a fine Gothic choir arch crucifix from ab. 1450. A large ship model "Håbet." The bell was re-cast in 1932.


Names in the Middle Ages and 1600s:
Hee (1291 He); Hvingel 1450 Hwyngel); Ejstrup (1465 Esdrup); Sirsbæk(1564 Siersbæk); Haelby (* 1474 Halbye); Agersbæk ( * 1474 Aunsbech, error for Aursbech, 1512 Agersb(æ)ck); Sønderby (* 1474 Sønnderbye); Nørkær (* 1486 Kier, 1664 Nørkierd); Voldbjerg(* 1433 Wolberg, 1443 Olbergh, 1453 Wolbergh); Sønderkær (1664 Synnderkierd); Nørgård (1547 Nørgaard); Folagergård (1610 Fold Agger); Hindø (1424 Hyngøø); Ølstoft (* 1475 Ølsztofftwad, 1664 Ølsztofft Gaard); Sanddal (1610 Sannddael); Bratbjerggård (1545 Bratberg); Voldbjerg Mølle (1664 Wolberg Mølle).

Voldbjerg is a main farm/manor, which in 1433-65 belonged to Peder Skram of Urup, who was married second time to Ellen Iversdatter (Krabbe or Krag?) Their daughter Ellen married Erik Christiernsen Fasti, who is mentioned of V. in 1473-84 and in 1474 claimed the farm by law. In 1474 are mentioned as earlier owners of V. old fru Ellen, hr. Iver Krag, hr. Johan Bjørnsen and hr. Peder Skram. Erik Fasti's wife Ellen Skram is mentioned of V. still in 1489, and from their children are mentioned Iver Eriksen of V. in 1485-94 and Peder Skram, who took the Skram-name after his maternal grandfather, in 1497-1537. The last mentioned's widow Christence Lunge is written to V. in 1543, and V. was inherited by the son Erik Skram and his brother Iver Skram, who is mentioned 1548-80.From his sons: Peder of Strandbjerggård (+ ab. 1613) Spend and Erik Skram (+ 1607), with his son Peder Skram the family died out; it seems that Spend Skram became the sole owner. He had given his wife Joland Jespersdatter (Vognsen livsbrev (to own for life) on V., but she came to soon in childbirth with her second husband Niels Lange of Skrumsager, and she was then judged to give the farm to her first husband's heirs, among whom Dorte Skram, married to Frands Poll of Starup (+ 1613). Later owners: Krag, Rantzau, Richter, outparcelling in 1795, main parcel sold to P. Grønlund, Clemmensen; owner 1936: L.N.Voldbjerg-Sørensen.


In a meadow ab. 250 m southwest of Voldbjerg is the old farm's Voldsted (castle bank), an oblong, castle site ab. 27 x 36 m. To the east a bridge lead over the now dried out moat. About 50 large oak planks were digged out at the castle site.

Agersbæk was earlier a main farm. In 1512 is mentioned væbner Niels of A., in 1532 Splid Bang and in 1538 it seems that Predbjørn Podebusk and Niels Ebbesen (Galt) had a part in the farm.It belonged later to Albert Friis of Haraldskær (+ 1601), whose daughter jomfru Lisbeth Friis in 1604 owned A., which she in 1625 leased to her brother-in-law Truid Bryske of Langesø. In 1627 Tønne Friis sold it on his late aunt's heirs behalf to rigsråd Niels Krag (+ 1650), whose son-in-law Hans Juul of Stårupgård in 1650 sold it to his brother-in-law Otte Krag of Voldbjerg. In 1688 3 peasants lived at A. and it belonged under Voldbjerg.

In 1465 is mentioned væbner Christiern Knudsen (Harbou) of Hee.

Sanddal vandmølle, established ab. 1545, was abandoned in 1674. In 1627 it belonged to the Crown.

Hindø belonged probably to Bo Høg of Ørum, whose son's son Lage Christensen Rød in 1424 had a feud with Ingeborg Vendelbo at Vosborg about H. among other things. When Søgård in Nysogn in 1604 was given to Mogens Juel by law, H. followed too. In 1626 and 1634 Otte Kaas (+ 1647) lived at H., which he later sold to Niels Krag, who placed it under Voldbjerg administration.

Hee Kro (inn) was earlier named Nørtoft (1610 Paa Tofft).

Listed prehistorics: 11 hills, all in the eastern part of the parish. At Bratbjerggård are Kvindhøjene, original 4, now only two left, one rather large. Two other large hills are in the heath to the east.
Demolished or destroyed: 12 hills, only two of these were in the southwestern part of the parish.

Source: Trap Danmark, Ringkøbing amt, 1965.


photo Hee kirke 2003: grethe bachmann

Grønbæk church / Grønbæk kirke, Lysgård herred, Viborg amt.

Grønbæk Church, 14 km northeast of Silkeborg
Grønbæk sogn, Lysgård herred, Viborg amt.






Grønbæk Church is especially known for its Romanesque frescoes in the apse-vault, but the church is also rich in Romanesque granite sculpture. As for the architecture the church is a rare example on a Jutland granite church where the new building material, burnt stones, were used for the finish of the building. The church yard is one of the prettiest in Jutland.

The Romanesque apse, choir and nave were built in granite ashlars ab. 1225 . Some original windows in apse, choir and nave are preserved. The frame stones around the bricked-up south door are decorated with animal figures, i.e. a dragon as a symbol of paganism opposite God's lamb. Upon the southside under the roof is a strange relief with a troll sneaking towards two people. The long granite ashlar ends in a bearded male head. The tower is from the late Gothic period built in ashlars and monk bricks. In the west window of the tower a modern glass-painting . The porch is from 1907.

In 1903-04 were Romanesque frescoes brought to light; they were restored in 1905, cleansed and repaired in 1956. The frescoes are contemporary to the church building, from ab. 1225. The decoration covers the whole apse-vault, and the pictures were undoubtedly painted immediately after the finish of the church building. All figures have stucco haloes, which probably were gilt originally. Two fields in the apse are dominating with two mighty, smiling, winged animal figures, the Lion of Mark and the grinning Oxen of Luke. The window niches are decorated in winding leaves and flowers. The frescoes in the apse in Grønbæk Church are a unique work of Romanesque art.

Inside are also interesting Romanesque stone pictures upon the kragbånd of the choir, i.e. a fire-breathing dragon and human figures; the dragon is kept back with a firm grib in the tail by God's hand. The colossal baptismal font in limestone is a Gotland work from the beginning of the 1200s. A granite communion table with a cross from 1906. New altar rails in wrought iron. A chasuble from 1725 with a silver embroidered crucifix. A rich Bruskbaroque pulpit with Evangelist figures in high relief, a contemporary entrance and sounding board from 1686 with relief carved initials R T F K I D M. Many memorials in the church, epitaphs etc. A church bell cast in 1485.


figures from the pulpit.


pulpit and crucifix in apse


figures from old altar piece


kragbånd with dragon and lion.


Romanesque frescoes, Lion of Mark and Oxen of Luke.


A unique church with a pretty church yard.

Names in the Middle Ages:
Grønbæk (*1231 Grønæbec); Brårup (*1231 Brothærthorp); Roe (*1231 Rythæ, 1525 Roy); Ris (*1394 Riisz); Naderup (*1425 Naderup); Kongensgård (*1444 Kongensgard).

The farm Ris was in 1394 conveyed by Peder Høeg to hr. Jens Nielsen Løvenbalk, who in 1412 sold it to Alling kloster.

Just outside Grønbæk was a sacred spring, Vissenkilde.

The vicarage's stuehus (living house) , which is listed in class B, was built in 1757 by provst Niels Hurtigkarl, who according to tradition saw to the production of the 54 cm long bricks and other formstones himself.

West of Grønbæk was excavated a ruin, the so-called Erik Glipping's Hunting-house, consisting of the foundation of a medieval building, in raw and cleaved granite boulder (inside measures ab. 11 x 6,5 m). The place shows no sign of fortification.

Listed prehistorics: 13 hills, all small or medium size.
Demolished or destroyed: 39 hills,east of Roe was a large group of 15-20 hills, and a close group of now over-ploughed 5 hills were north northeast of Roe.

Source: Trap Danmark, Viborg amt, 1962; Niels Peter Stilling, Danmarks kirker, 2000.



photo Grønbæk kirke May 2006: grethe bachmann